A year ago, when I started ultra-cycling at Race Across Austria, I thought "never again." But before I knew it, I was looking for even more challenging adventures. What I found was Seven Serpents—an ultra-gravel race through the mountains and islands of Southern Europe.
"This is worth the challenge."
Bikepacking race for an unsupported three-country crossing. Just thinking about it excited me, though the anxiety about finishing was equally overwhelming. But curiosity won out.
What is Seven Serpents?
Seven Serpents is a bikepacking race covering 850km with 16,000m of elevation gain, crossing three countries—Slovenia, Croatia, and Italy—with a one-week time limit and no support.
Participants must rely solely on their own strength to ride, procure food, find accommodation, and solve mechanical issues. It's a thrilling, almost insane event that truly deserves to be called a modern-day adventure.
Course Profile
The scenery is incredibly diverse. Starting from Slovenia's lush green forests, passing through medieval historical structures, traversing Croatia's rugged limestone islands, and finally ending in the charming Italian port city of Trieste.
The terrain is extremely varied: dry gravel roads, jagged rocky sections, loose stone on steep slopes, muddy areas with no grip, mountain trails, forest roads, and even cobblestones—the list goes on. While there are some on-road sections, it's by no means an easy journey.
The two ferry connections between islands also create a battle against timetables. The unpredictable temperatures and weather in May add another layer of difficulty.
Riders from Around the World
In 2025, 145 participants gathered, mainly gravel, MTB, and bikepacking enthusiasts from various European countries. Though it's an amateur race, the top riders' speeds are professional-level.
The age range is primarily 20s to 50s, with relatively few female participants.
Interestingly, the field is split almost evenly between gravel bikes and mountain bikes. The 77% completion rate shows this is no easy race. For those with skill concerns, choosing an MTB is the wise choice.
Equipment and Gear
Bike
My lovely Cannondale Topstone Carbon. Total weight excluding water and food was around 11kg.
I have switched to SRAM eTap AXS components. The benefits of electronic shifting became apparent especially in the latter half when fatigue accumulated. I kept the Growtac Equal Lever and just added Blips switches—resulting in an unusual configuration.
Wheels were Light Bicycle WG44 rims with Industry Nine Solix hubs.
Looking back, honestly, "I cannot make it with a NO-SUS gravel bike next time." I attempted this with a rigid fork, but in the limestone terrain of the Dinaric Alps, the lack of suspension led to significant energy depletion.
Tire Selection
I chose Panaracer Gravel King X1 (standard version) for both front and rear. They were puncture-free, lost minimal air pressure, and faithfully carried me through all 850km without complaint—truly the unsung heroes.
I had been running UltraDynamico Race until just before, which I preferred for ride quality, but switched considering puncture resistance.
Gravel King also comes in SK with deeper knob patterns, but I chose X1 expecting versatility. However, this proved to be a jack-of-all-trades situation, and especially in Croatia's limestone sections, I needed a more aggressive tread pattern.
Packing Strategy and Gear
I distributed luggage across four main areas:
- Apidura frame pack: Sunglasses, tools, food
- Apidura rear pack: Rain gear, insulation, valuables
- Albion Backpack: Hydration pack, jacket, food
- Tool bottle: Puncture repair supplies
I didn't bring a sleeping bag, assuming hotel stays, and many others seemed to have the same idea. For hydration, I used a hydration pack plus 500ml bottle setup. The bottle gets dirty after just 5km, so I relied mainly on the pack.
A front pack for rain gear would have been useful—allowing separation of dirty items and reducing the stress of accessing gear.
Clothing Choices
Even in Southern Europe, crossing 1,000m+ mountains in May meant temperature variations were greater than expected.
With rain forecasted, I prepared full rain gear:
- Jacket with hood and pants
- Overgloves and shoe covers
- Down jacket(also for hotel cloths)
This preparation paid off with consecutive rainy days. Temperatures didn't rise much either, so long sleeves throughout might have been better. Minimal exposure also helps with sunburn, skin irritation, and insect bite prevention.
Race Report - Ljubljana to Trieste
Slovenia's Forests and First Baptism — Days 1-2
Day 1 (0~180km): Ljubljana to Postojna
7 AM start. I eagerly woke up early but made the rookie mistake of forgetting to return my hotel key. I had to delay my start and set off from dead last.
With everyone's spirits high at the beginning, it was hard to catch the pack. However, with fresh legs and motivation, I steadily moved up.
Passing Predjama Castle, a 13th-century fortress clinging to a rock face, I reached the 100km mark. Rest time was kept to the planned 20%, maintaining excellent pace.
Just when I thought things were going well, weather deteriorated in the afternoon.
By the time I reached the day's main challenge—CP1 at Sveta Trojica (1,123m elevation)—thunder provided the soundtrack. Climbing to the summit in the rain, by 9 PM it was already pitch dark with only our lights for guidance. At this point, I still had the luxury of enjoying it as "the essence of adventure." Having other riders nearby was reassuring.
10:30 PM, safe arrival in Postojna. Day 1 alone had 3,700m of elevation gain—already uncharted territory for me.
Day 2 (180~360km): Postojna to Kraljevica
Early mornings always bring a sense of emptiness. I honestly considered quitting. My muscles were already screaming, and wet clothes clung to my skin. Seeing fellow riders start moving on Dotwatcher made me anxious. Fortunately, this was the only day with clear weather forecast. "Let's just try riding"—I mounted my bike with a resigned attitude.
I clearly didn't have yesterday's fresh legs. More time spent pushing the bike. I even felt anger toward the event putting me through this ordeal.
The route to CP2 was a 100km no-resupply zone. Moreover, Risnjak National Park is wild territory where bears and wolves roam. Surrounded by dense beech and fir trees, tension permeated the humid forest air.
The climb to Guslica Mountain (1,490m) in the Dinaric range was steep with sharp rocks scattered about. Many loose stones meant walking and pushing.
Near the end, there was an unforgettable moment. The night view of the Adriatic coast during a downhill literally made me gasp—a small reward.
11 PM, I tumbled into the hotel covered in mud. The warmth of being welcomed as a soaking wet Asian in the middle of the night! I knew it was too late, but set my alarm for 7 AM and fell asleep.
Limestone Islands and Adriatic Trials — Days 3-4
Day 3 (360~480km): Kraljevica to Cres
Another start amid internal conflict. "If I find a good reason to quit, I'll quit immediately"—I was pathetically searching for excuses for defeat. That was the honest truth.
Crossing the strait to Krk Island. Olive trees, rosemary, and other low shrubs increased.
Though elevation was low, off-road sections with exposed limestone fangs continued. Lacking skills to handle the fine ups and downs, I resorted to more hike-a-bike. These trails were frustrating on a gravel bike. Even my beloved Topstone felt like a burden.
Muscle fatigue was serious too. The minimal performance remaining from yesterday had become thoroughly depleted by this point.
The highlight was "Stara Baška climb"—a hiking section impossible even on MTB. The choice was push or carry the bike.
Then the ferry to Cres Island. After disembarking, we looked at each other facing a wall-like hill climb. No choice but to climb.
Day 4 (480~620km): Cres to Ročko polje
My heart rate wouldn't rise anymore. Even 10%+ climbs wouldn't exceed Zone 2. Clearly my legs couldn't keep up.
Pain and fatigue had reached serious levels. Butt, grip strength, blisters, especially severe back pain.
After crossing Cres Island and barely making the mainland ferry with 10 minutes to spare, relief was short-lived—the race's biggest climb awaited.
The climb to Vojak Peak on Učka Mountain (1,396m). From the stone observation tower, panoramic views of Istria Peninsula and the Adriatic Sea should have been visible, but once again I was hit by thunderstorms. Riders took shelter at a restaurant near the summit. By 7 PM, some were negotiating floor sleeping arrangements. Everyone was soaked.
Still, I had to ride the remaining 30km to the hotel. During the final downhill, I crashed spectacularly. Rain had turned a depression into clay, catching my tire and sending me flying to the right side. For a moment, my breath stopped, but I calmly checked my body and bike. No major injuries, and the SRAM Blips shifter that flew off was quickly found.
The Seven Serpents' Destination, Trieste's Unity Square — Days 5-6
Day 5 (620~790km): Ročko polje to Gračišče
210km to the finish. The faint hope that "if I push hard, I could finish today" triggered an adrenaline rush, reinvigorating my depleted legs. I attacked the mountain sections at nearly Day 1 pace.
Passing through Hum village (world's smallest town) and Motovun village with its medieval stonework, heading toward Slavnik Peak (1,028m), but once again—torrential rain. This broke my spirit.
While other riders sheltered in a civic ground, I escaped to the only available hotel.
The rain intensified during my approach, turning roads into rivers. Hands, feet, face—everything soaked, I couldn't even unlock my iPhone.
The elation of finishing was washed away by rain. Another day of riding was inevitable. "Tomorrow is damage control..." I sank into bed with something resembling resignation.
Final Day (790~850km): Gračišče to Trieste
I had underestimated the final 60km. My legs felt like lead, my body wouldn't respond. Heavy, sluggish movement like pushing through mud—no sense of progress.
Add strong winds and rain for a double punch. The chain dropped at the worst possible moment. Too exhausted for proper judgment, anger and fatigue created emotional chaos.
Still, I reached the final summit. And then I saw it! The cityscape of Trieste, the Adriatic port town.
Entering Trieste, the level of civilization was incomparably different from the villages we'd passed through—I was bewildered. Cafes, cobblestone streets, people going about their lives. After five days of battling nature, the scene was blindingly bright.
The moment of finishing at "the most beautiful and symbolic Piazza Unità d'Italia" brought indescribable achievement. When I asked the organizer, "Just to confirm, this is the end, right?" the response was: "This is halfway—now you turn around and go back!" Despite exhaustion, I couldn't help but laugh.
My placement was below average. But it was undoubtedly my personal victory.
In the square were fellow riders, equally muddy and battered. We shared the accomplishment of completing the race. All of us had suffered together on this route.
Post-Race Reflections - Challenges and Rewards
Immediately after finishing, I was in a sort of shock state—food tasted like only half its flavor. The sensation of sudden release from torture-like hardship. As my head gradually cleared, analytical thinking returned: 'How could I ride faster and safer next time?'
What I Learned
Equipment Discoveries: Honestly, I think rigid gravel bikes have limitations for someone like me. Suspension (front and ideally rear too) is necessary. I felt this acutely in Croatia's trail sections.
Tires should be as wide as possible. Organizers recommend "minimum 45mm." My front tire pattern was a poor choice. Should have gone with the more aggressive SK. The mud crash was clearly due to front tire grip failure.
However, the Growtac brakes I was worried about with cable pull performed excellently. Simple reach adjustment functions minimized grip fatigue.
While aero TT bars saw limited use, they were helpful equipment. Additional hand positions reduce stress during long rides.
Nutrition Strategy Lessons: Though Europe lacks 24H convenience stores, connecting restaurants and gas stations makes resupply relatively manageable. Bread, gummies, energy bars, and drinking yogurt became staples.
During the race, I avoided fatty foods, excessive caffeine, and overly cold items. This was a lesson from the Austrian race, and I successfully avoided stomach issues and abdominal pain.
However, I faced several food crises—a point for reflection. In supermarkets, buying too much is just right.
Health Management Discoveries: Painkillers to mask back and seat pain were effective. Caffeine was also beneficial when needed, especially noticeable for morning startup.
I learned it takes over an hour each morning to warm up my body. Better to start slowly without forcing it.
Mistakes and Improvements
Critical Skill Deficiencies: Lack of terrain-handling skills was serious. Riding techniques for mud and loose stones, shock absorption on descents with fist-sized rocks—having these skills could have saved several hours with the same fitness level.
For next time, 100mm+ front suspension is essential to compensate for skill deficiency. Meanwhile, top riders choosing gravel bikes with shallow knobs reminds me again of the level difference.
Fitness Management Failures: I lacked understanding and countermeasures for what happens to the body when muscles are abused over multiple days. If I could have maintained Day 1 performance, how would my placement have changed?
Knowledge about recovery methods was also insufficient. I took token amounts of herbal medicine and supplements. Need to consider massage and adequate sleep time.
Time Management
The essence of ultra-racing is optimizing total time, combining "moving time" and "stopped time."
GPS data analysis showed 44% of time was stopped for various reasons:
- Moving Time: 2d 22h 29m (56%)
- Stopped Time: 2d 8h 16m (44%)
Moving time depends purely on leg power and pacing strategy, requiring long-term training for improvement. Stopped time is an area where even slower riders can improve through experience and efficiency:
- Accommodation: Standardize the flow from hotel selection to sleep, eliminating wasted time
- Resupply: Gas stations and kiosks are quick and open on Sundays. Large supermarkets waste time searching for products and have limited hours. Restaurants offer rest and warm food but at the cost of waiting time
- Routine tasks: Establish morning equipment checks (tire pressure, chain oil, mud removal, packing) as streamlined workflows
To bridge the innate physical differences with European riders, minimizing stopped time is the realistic strategy.
Results
- Finish Time: 5 days, 6 hours, 28 minutes
- Placement: 69th (111 started in solo category)
- Average Speed: 12.7km/h
The numbers alone aren't impressive, but I'm satisfied with completing a race with a 77% finish rate.
Future Prospects and, Once Again, About Seven Serpents
During the race, cognitive capacity for anything beyond "riding" was extremely limited—conversation was difficult, and there was no mental space to enjoy scenery.
Strangely, while riding I thought "I'll never do this crazy event again," but from the moment I finished at Trieste's Unity Square, I found myself thinking about the next one.
I made connections with great riders. Everyone was already talking about the next race—we'll probably meet somewhere again.
Special thanks to organizer Bruno, photographer Marco, and all staff. Without their sleepless support, there would have been more DNFs. The completion rate in these harsh weather conditions was thanks to their dedication.
With the realization that "last year's fitness wouldn't have gotten me to the finish," I renewed my appreciation for training's importance. Completing Seven Serpents definitely built confidence. I look forward to reuniting with fellow riders who shared the same suffering.
I hope this record serves as reference for those considering challenging Seven Serpents.